Welcome to Chris and Karen’s sailing blog. We completed the ARC+ 2022 and have started the World ARC 2023. Our boat, Mistral of Portsmouth, is a 2001 Oyster 56.
It’s quite a place. We had 11 inspectors going over the boat on arrival, and a pair of divers who inspected the hull for contaminants (e.g. barnacles). We were OK, but one boat in the fleet failed the hull inspection and had to go 25 nm off-shore, pay for hull cleaning and pay a fine. Bad luck.
San CristobalTurtleNorth Seymour TourBlue Feet (Booby)Sea TurtleKarenDolphin
Once cleared in you are only allowed to visit three islands and not permitted to snorkel, dive, hike, use your tender or any way explore without a tour guide. One wonders if they really want us there.
Blue-Footed Booby
Having said that, the sights are unique. San Cristobal is the island where it’s impossible not to trip over sea lions in the street. Isabela has major colonies of the blue-footed booby, and Santa Cruz has it all – iguanas, sea turtles, boobies, sea lions, dolphins, the lot.
Iguana
Since it’s our second time in Galapagos (the first was in 2018), it was great to see it from our own boat. Will we return? Probably not…
855 nautical miles, 5 days, but unfortunately, after the first day, there was no wind. We motored at reduced speed so we had a better chance of catching fish (not many fish that you want on board can swim at 8 kt).
Blue SunshinePacific MoonriseUnwanted GuestPacific Sunset
At least, motoring, you don’t have to worry about a night-time squall requiring a sail-plan change, but we used 670 litres of fuel which won’t be cheap in Galapagos.
At midnight on the 12th of February we crossed the equator. I woke up the crew (fast asleep, as usual) and Karen came on deck with a bottle of champagne and an “Equator Cake”. After a suitable celebration I retired in order to be compos mentis for the Galapagos arrival.
Equator!Happy WifeEquator Cake
We’re now on San Cristobal island, Galapagos, preparing for inspection so we can continue to stay. Fingers crossed they don’t find my stack of Cheesey Puffs!
Modern city, lovely old town, but we spent most of our time in La Playita Marina getting the boat fixed after the Panama Canal staff drove us into the side of the canal.
Panama City Old Town
We’d definitely come back here in the future – we’re learning that despite visiting places that we wouldn’t normally choose to visit, we don’t have enough time once we’re here!
Panama CityPanama City Old TownPanama City Old TownBad Day’s Sailing
Voyager IIFARLover of the LightIsabelSafir af StockholmRenegadeSolana VElaniaLover of the LightBlue SunshineCacique IVLone StarMatildaPippinSaltThetisAmanzi
The first 12 boats in the World ARC 2023 transited the Panama Canal on 29 & 30 January 2023. We were divided into four “nests” of three boats each, with Mistral as the starboard boat of Nest 1. After collecting our Panama Canal advisor next to Shelter Bay Marina, we motored down to Gatun Lock which we cleared through in the dark. Next we continued on to Gatun Lake where we moored up for the night.
Atlantic Bridge, ColonAtlantic Bridge, ColonGatun LakeRafting UpRafting UpGatun LockKaren Line-HandlingGatun LockCorrie RelaxingPhil at the WheelTim Line-HandlingGatun Lock
The next day was a long motor through Gatun Lake to the Pedro Miguel Lock and the Miraflores Lock. Unfortunately our advisors were unable to prevent Nest 1 from colliding with the lock wall as we exited Miraflores – the stanchions are being repaired as I type.
Passing under the Bridge of the Americas marks the transition from the Atlantic to the Pacific – we’ve now sailed our boat from France to the Pacific Ocean!
We’ve now hauled the boat out for cleaning, anti fouling and polishing ready for the inspection in Galapagos. If the boat isn’t cleared in, you are sent 40 miles away and charged $1500 for cleaning.
On the hardAgua Clara LocksAgua Clara LocksAgua Clara LocksAgua Clara LocksAgua Clara Locks
We visited the Panama Canal this morning and watched a large gas transporter entering the locks. Amazing to see and also amazing that we start our transit on Sunday!
Timelapse of the Santa Marta – San Blas legCat Close to the ReefWest HollandaiseChichime CayeGunboat CayeGunboat CayeLobster Anyone?East HollandaisePelican at Work East Hollandaise
A few relaxing days in Santa Marta. Apart from straightening a stanchion, there has been very little work to do on the boat, apart from routine maintenance and cleaning. Karen, Tim & Jane took a one-day tour to the hills and coffee factory (see Karen’s site for more). We had a couple of meals in town in the evening and sundowner cocktails in the marina. The highlight was Chris’s chilli on the boat 😉
MarketSanta MartaMarketSanta Marta MarinaGuasimoMarina Sunset